• New Haven Living Magazine

    July 2013 Issue “River Dining”
    “Take Me to the River” by Spencer Caldwell
    page 31

    Nellie Green’s Restaurant
    Named for the legendary lady rumrunner who eluded authorities for years during Prohibition with her sophisticated operation on the Farm River that forms the border between East Haven and Branford, Nellie Green’s is a little tricky to find but well worth the effort. The restaurant is located in a freestanding building at Branford Landing Marina, where its views of the marina and Branford River are absorbing. Talented chef Jason Truscio, now a partner with owner Mike Savinelli, prepares a top-flight menu with everything ranging from grilled baby octopus to fish tacos to lobster sliders to beef Wellington to fresh pastas to Opal Farms lamb chops to some of Connecticut’s very best burgers. 50 Maple St., Branford, 203-483- 8400, www.nelliegreens.com

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    Nellie Green’s – She’s down behind some roughed up buildings at the marina. Inside and out, she’s a very plain Jane, but playing so hard to find. Exec Chef/Partner Jason says wistfully, “Well, that’s her charm.” “The ladies who sat over there are coming back for dinner,” says the waitress, who gushes over the Jason show. At our late lunch, he’s the maître d’, chef and serving some of his creations, with twinkle in his eye. We had Rockport Lobster Cavatelli, a lovely dish of homemade pasta swimming in natural sauce with big chunks of hand pulled lobster, lusty peeled organic tomatoes, crunchy zucchini, basil and fresh garlic slices. The menu ranges from this to Wild Boar with Vermont White Rabbit. Jason, between thirty- eight and thirty- nine, says that before he left New York, he had envisioned a new place run as a Chinese laundry until 7, when you could walk through the wash and dry into a fabulously au courant dining room. This is an exceptionally talented fellow, and, to be honest, all you can say about his food is “Wow!”
    50 Maple St., Branford, 203-483-8400